The Antigorio Valley [Valle Antigorio] is well-known for the beauty of the Alpe Devero, however, the valley floor also offers a range of picturesque trails through age-old villages, works of art, mythical locations and unique geological phenomena.

Popes and non-alcoholic drinks

A perfect trail for mountain biking enthusiasts and a great alternative to the main Laghi&Monti Bike route (which follows the course of the Toce river from Lake Maggiore to its source and then on to Switzerland), it starts from the square [piazza] located in front of the Baceno Town Hall.

After travelling along Via Sant’Antonio, follow the trail to the village of Cuggine. Once you reach the mill, continue downhill towards the bridge that crosses the Devero stream, before arriving at the village of Uresso. From here the paved road leads to Graglia village, and before the final bend, a dirt track takes you to the village of Crino. Rather than heading down to the village of Baceno, follow the mule-track to reach the paved road that climbs to Cravegna village. At the next hairpin bend, a meadow trail takes you to the small hamlet of Croda, proud to be the birthplace of Giovanni Antonio Facchinetti, who later became Pope Innocent IX in 1591.

Gorges, potholes and the “0” element

Continue along the road to Navasco and then join the mule-track (path G11) that leads down and crosses the Alfenza stream to reach Crodo via a network of smaller paved roads. Once in Crodo, the Antigorian centre that gave its name to the famous non-alcoholic drink Crodino, and where the production of soft drinks and mineral water still takes place, cross the state road near the Antigorian Dairy to cycle down towards Maglioggio. Don’t ascend to the village, but continue along the Verampio plateau. After crossing the Toce river, turn right until you reach the car park past the Campagna Trattoria. From this point, follow the signs for the Orridi di Uriezzo [Uriezzo Gorges], where the dirt track begins, cross the Devero stream and then gradually climb uphill.

From the Maiesso bridge, you can admire the splendid marmitte dei Giganti [Giants’ potholes] eroded into the white rock, then continue along the trail past the Orridi di Uriezzo (Uriezzo gorges) to the car park in front of the Oratorio di Santa Lucia. (Santa Lucia Parish Church).

The potholes and gorges are fascinating examples of glacial erosion. The gorges were created when the entire Toce valley was covered in ice and subglacial streams carved these deep, narrow ravines. Today, no water flows through them anymore and now it is possible to walk along its floor. From a geological point of view, the area is also of particular interest as the so-called “element 0“, i.e. the deepest layer of the Alps, can be seen between Verampio and Maiesso.

Witches and the ‘viper priest’

The paved road climbs up to Premia after crossing the spectacular Balmafredda gorge. After the hamlet of Piazza, turn right onto a small road (follow signs G00 Via del Gries – Sbrinz Route) which turns into a mule track leading to Rozzaro. Once in Pioda, ride uphill to the hamlet of Cresta, where a firebreak trail starts and continues towards Croveo – Beola. Once you have reached the first houses of the hamlet of Beola, descend to the Baceno – Goglio provincial road. It is recommended to use this road to reach the centre of Croveo. The hamlet of Baceno is notorious today due to the accusations of witchcraft made by the Dominicans against many of the women of the Antigorio Valley who eventually ended up being investigated and tortured. They came from the village of Croveo and it was believed that they gathered at the Osso bridge, near the Devil’s boilers, on their way to the witches’ sabbath. Thus this area became steeped in legends. Croveo, on the other hand, became known in the 20th century as the village of the viper priest, Don Amedeo Ruscetta. The priest, skilled in capturing poisonous snakes, also taught the technique to his parishioners, and thousands of vipers were captured and sent to serological research centres. Guido Piovene also wrote about it in his Viaggio in Italia.

The trail ends by descending from Beola to the Baulina bridge, here once again experiencing magnificent forms of erosion carved into the rock. Continue along the trail until it crosses the main H00 path, which you must then follow in the direction of Graglia (beware of the steep and slippery mule track). From Graglia continue towards Uresso and, following the H00 trail, descend on a steep mule track to the bridge at the Baceno sports field and then climb back up to the town hall square. Before leaving Baceno it is well worth paying a visit to the parish church of San Gaudenzio, a national monument. Inside, a sloping floor leads you towards the altar through beautifully decorated and frescoed aisles, columns and chapels. The ancient Romanesque church was enlarged and enriched between the 15th and 16th centuries by the De Baceno feudal lords, and Baroque elements were added later. The result is a spectacular sight built on a spur of rock.

The trail is moderately difficult and can be walked from April to November. The total length of the route is 23 kilometres. The height difference is 620 metres uphill and the same amount downhill, as a result of numerous ascents and descents, considering that the starting point is 665 metres and the highest point is 820 metres at Cravegna. An excellent trail to discover Alpine art and rural architecture and admire unique geological landscapes, in a setting steeped in history and legend.

Are you in the Lake District and want to know which cycling routes are best for you?

If you can bring the family?

Do you need an MTB, or is an e-bike okay?

On distrettolaghi.it and lagomaggioreexperience.it you can choose from 40 routes. They range from stretches for experienced bikers to flat routes through nature ideal for groups or families. You can climb hills between Italy and Switzerland at an altitude of over 2,000 metres, or ride along the shores of our lakes. To discover them, you can go to the Outdoor section and download the detailed sheets we have prepared for each itinerary.

However, we can start giving you some tips. You can also find them on this map, which can be downloaded here (or is available at the local tourist offices).

Flowers, woods and villages

From Verbania to Domodossola (or vice versa) following the river Toce.

The Toce Cycle Route is an almost completely flat itinerary, on cycle paths, white roads or easy paths, suitable for everyone. Immersed in nature, you cross the special nature reserve of Fondotoce and the places where the typical flowers of Lake Maggiore grow, giving their best from April to May. Then from Ornavasso to Premosello you meet the luxuriant green of the Bosco Tenso, with a route suitable for mountain bikes. At Vogogna you can enkoy the spectacle of the ancient medieval castle and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The route continues on a cycle path to the Borgo della Cultura in Domodossola, with its charming Piazza Mercato. For those who still have energy, the cycle route concludes with a loop between the rivers to Crevoladossola and Masera. It takes about 7 hours to cover the whole route, round trip.

Roads of war

More than a century ago, while the First World War was being fought, Italy feared a German invasion from Switzerland. This gave rise to the high-level fortifications of the Cadorna Line. Then in the Second World War the partisans took refuge there. Today, in Verbano, the wide white roads that link them offer the possibility of riding between the panorama of the Borromean Gulf and the peaks of the Val Grande National Park, the largest protected wilderness area in Italy.

A mountain bike round trip from Piancavallo, on the slopes of Monte Zeda, takes three hours and involves 650 metres of altitude difference.

Rosmini, Manzoni and surroundings

In the mid-19th century, the philosopher and the writer used to meet between Lesa and Stresa. Antonio Rosmini and Alessandro Manzoni stayed on the banks of the Verbano, and with them many intellectuals of the Italian Risorgimento. If you are a fan of cycle tourism, history and Art Nouveau villas, as well as views, orchards and woods as far as the eye can see, you can go from Stresa to Arona by following the coast road and returning along the Vergante road. It takes a couple of hours to get there and back, with a few medium climbs.

The Lake of Fantasy

Gianni Rodari was born here and set some of his most famous fairy tales in this place. But even without the genius of the writer, Lake Orta does not fail to spark the imagination. Its island of San Giulio seems to have come straight out of a tale and has mythical origins. The Cusio can be skirted by bicycle in a couple of hours. It is 35 km with a 200 metre altitude difference to be overcome by letting your imagination run wild.

Cycling and brushstrokes

The Vigezzo Valley is located on the border with Switzerland, on a plateau running from east to west. The result? A special light from dawn to dusk. Ideal for cycling and painting. Its views have been immortalised by famous painters. In an hour and a half you can go from Druogno to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sangue di Re on a cycle path with no major differences in height. An easy route where, after each bend, you will want to stop and paint a picture. But probably a selfie will do.

Foto di Fabio Valeggia

This year, there was snow at altitude until early summer, but now the conditions are right for mountain biking the cross-border part of the Laghi&Monti Bike route, the Italy-Switzerland Interreg project between Upper Ticino and Upper Piedmont.

An itinerary between the upper Formazza Valley and the Bedretto Valley, much of it on dirt roads built in the first half of the 20th century, at the time of the construction of the large Alpine reservoirs to supply hydroelectric power stations. The route offers a panorama that sweeps from Monte Basodino to the St Gotthard Massif.

In the footsteps of Bonatti

The starting point is the Centro del Fondo in Riale, a hamlet of Formazza, at an altitude of over 1,700 metres. To reach it, you have to go past the Toce waterfall, with its spectacular drop, and then continue for another couple of kilometres. From the car park at the Centre, get on your MTB (traditional or electric, depending on your legs) and cross the river Toce on a small bridge, then follow the dirt road with a series of hairpin bends to the Maria Luisa Lodge. A small anecdote for mountain enthusiasts. It was here that the famous climber Walter Bonatti, in 1956, during the first ski-mountaineering crossing of the Alps (an up and down journey of over 1,700 kilometres), joined the group of another great mountaineer, Bruno Detassis, who had set off from Tarvisio, a few days before him and his team. An agreement was made to continue together. And so they reached the Col di Nava, accomplishing a memorable feat. But let us leave the skis and return to the wheels.

From Maria Luisa, continue along the dirt road. Reach the dam of Lake Toggia and continue along the lake. The road ends at the San Giacomo Pass, which marks the border between Italy and Switzerland and where a bike-barbecue facility will be built in the next few months, creating an excellent stopping point halfway along the route.

On the route of the packhorse carriers

For centuries, the pass has been the link between the communities north and south of the Alps. The first “customs” agreement was drawn up between Bedretto and Formazza as early as the middle of the 15th century, regulating tolls and the routes of the packhorse carriers, who transported goods across the pass on their mules. Cloth, wine, cattle, cheese and salt were the most heavily trafficked goods.

Swiss descent and ascent

Let’s leave the packhorses to the past (although in these places, via Gries, there is an annual commemoration of the old packhorse route through the Alps in August) and continue our journey.

Following the signs, we take the path that descends to the San Giacomo alpine pasture, with its characteristic little white church, and then, remaining halfway up the mountainside, we reach the arrival point of the Grandinagia cable car with the completely buried artillery fort of the same name. After a steep winding stretch, followed by a nice half slope, we arrive at the Stabiascio alp. To the left, we take a forest path that winds down to the village of All’Acqua. From here, we continue along the cantonal road until reaching Ronco. Immediately after the junction for Ronco, we cross the Ticino river and climb up to the Valleggia alpine pasture. Once there, we turn left along a track and follow the signs for Stabiascio. From here we retrace your steps back to the San Giacomo Pass, then take the dirt track and return to Riale.

This is a difficult but very satisfying route, ideal from July to September.

The total length is 40 kilometres, with a difference in altitude of 1,220 metres (both positive and negative). The highest point is the San Giacomo Pass at an altitude of 2,315 metres, where you can find yourself with one wheel in Switzerland and the other in Italy.

Foto:

© Archivio Fotografico Distretto Turistico dei Laghi

The Ossola Valleys are DOC lands, and not only in a metaphorical sense. Apart from the fact that it still exudes the authenticity of its inhabitants’ character and the flavours of their products, it also boasts three varieties of wine which have been awarded Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (Controlled Designation of Origin) status.

Interested in finding out more about Ossola wines? The grape varietals featured are Nebbiolo, Croatina, Merlot and Chardonnay. These varieties make Valli Ossolane DOC Bianco, Valli Ossolane DOC Rosso and DOC Nebbiolo (Prunent), including the Superiore wine range. In the 19th century, as in most parts of Europe, the vine-killing insect phylloxera destroyed most of the vineyards. With the accompanying development of industry, many of the terraces, which mark the landscape of the slopes closer to the valley floor, were abandoned and invaded by forests. In the last few decades, an ancient indigenous Nebbiolo vine, the Prunent, has been rediscovered, which has led to the enhancement of Ossola wine. Several vineyards were planted and between now and the first half of October the grapes that give life to Prunent are harvested.

To taste the 2021 harvest one will have to wait a few months for the whites, and a few years for the more refined reds. However, in the meantime, you can enjoy the colours and scents by cycling through the vineyards.

You can start from Masera, where the Grape Festival has been held for almost a century, and, after crossing the bridge over the Melezzo, climb up a steep asphalt road (Via Pello) to Trontano, from where you can descend along the Strada Vecchia to State Road 337. The route is surrounded by rows of vines and woods, with a view over Domodossola and the surrounding mountains, from Cistella to Moncucco.

Follow the SS 337 as far as Croppo di Trontano, cross the Mizzoccola bridge towards Domodossola and follow the signs for Sacro Monte Calvario. From here you can continue to the hamlets of Crosiggia and Quartero. From here you can descend to the plain and continue to Borgata Gabi Valle towards Villadossola, and then follow the signs for Tappia. Here too, in the shadows of the peaks that mark the boundaries of the Val Grande National Park, you will cycle among rows of vineyards that are tinged with yellow, orange and red in autumn.

The return journey can be along the same route or by crossing the Toce near Domo 2.

For those who have strong legs, there is a further loop to add to the excursion. From Masera, head north towards Montecrestese. Climb up to the hamlet of Lomese and then descend towards Roledo, from here the road runs alongside the river and you can return to Masera. Alternatively, continue north to the hamlet of Oira di Crevoladossola. You will cycle through vineyards, forests and examples of rural architecture. A landscape carved in stone and softened by Prunent grapes.

Photo Credits: Silvia Lorenzini, Marco Garrone, Jacopo Fontaneto